Camino Day 3 July 25 Roncevalles to Zubiri (Albergue Zaldiko) 13.6 miles Total Miles to date 30.6
The hostel I stayed at in Roncevalles was run by the local church. It's only two years old and very nice. The doors are locked from ten pm to six am. So I set my alarm for five to get up and get out by six. My guidebook says there are a couple of places to get breakfast in the first five miles, so I decide not to get a yogurt and coffee from the vending machine before heading out. Big mistake! The "breakfast places" weren't open, at least they weren’t open at to eat eight when I past the first one. My first cafe and bite (tortilla española) was at noon. Needless to say the afternoon part of the walk after fill up on carbs, caffeine and sugar was at a faster clip. What a great combo.
It was still dark when I left the alberge, so I walked a narrow forest path with my head lamp. As it started to get light, just as the sun was starting to peek over the horizon, I came upon a field covered with low lying fog. As the sun rose the fog started to burn off and out of the mist cows began to take shape. It was better than a Spielberg special effect.
I seem to have no interest in finding a walking partner or group. I'm really enjoying walking alone and going at my own pace. I'm enjoying meeting people and having conversations. I met a couple of kids from London when I stopped for coffee. And I've had conversations with a couple of my roomies in this alberque in Zubiri at the alberque Zaldiko. In this alberque there are three rooms with four bunk beds (8 beds) in each room. The fellow on the bunk above me, Lee, is from Ireland and the gal on the bunk across from me is from Ecuador. She's getting a Master's in early childhood education and has studied in three different countries. Kim who is on the top bunk across from me is from Japan and the other four people in this room are Spanish, a couple and a father and his son. The son looks to be about thirteen.
As I was typing this on my iphone I heard Clara's voice by the laundry sink. I met Clara in Orison and saw her last night in Roncevalles. She is originally from Canada, but has been living and teaching in Japan for twenty years. She is traveling with two Japanese men who are very nice. I cannot pronounce, let alone spell their names.
After taking a shower and washing my clothes, I went out for a cafe con leche, then came back and took a nap. When I woke up Lee suggested we go find his friends who are staying at the municipal alberque and have dinner. About eight of us had pilgrim dinners that were yummy and filling. We shared stories of the road and our lives and lots of laughter.
Today there were more hills, up and down. My right knee was screaming on the downhills. I'll be glad, I think, to get out of the mountains for a while. I figured out that we climbed to four thousand seven hundred feet those first two days. I think the gain was over twelve miles.
I walked through more forests and fields. Several times I thought I was on the set for Harry Potter or The Hunger Games. I miss all of you a lot and do look forward to your messages at the end of day.
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