Camino Day 33 August 24 Villadangos del Páramo to Astorga 19.4 miles Total to date 345.4

I forgot a couple of things from yesterday. At one point in time I looked to the side and there you were my purple flowers, as if you had jumped on a bush to get up high enough to give me besas (kisses usually one on each cheek as a hello or goodbye.) later in San Miguel there was a table on the sidewalk with treats for pilgrims. There was also a book to write in, which I did and grabbed a cookie, a piece of candy and a couple of pieces of fruit. There was also an article about the man who lives in the house behind the table. He loves the Camino. As I was leaving he stuck his head out the window and told me I could write in the book. I told him I already did and thanked him for the treats. I walked down the side walk and in his yard he had a pilgrim sculpture and some other stuff about the Camino. I stopped to take a picture and while I was doing that the man came out with several more pieces of fruit. We talked a little and then gave besas and said hasta la vista. Life is incredible.

Didn't know how far I was going to walk today. 19.4 miles sounded like a lot. When I left the Albergue there were big black clouds in the sky. It had been cloudy, windy and cool last evening. I thought it might rain, but it didn't. It was jus dark longer than usual because the sun was blocked, but as it came out through the clouds it was pretty spectacular. So my first stop for cáfe I met up with Mutt and Jeff. We chatted a bit and I found out their names are Alvaro and Rosara. They offered me the tostado that they hadn't eaten, but I was full from the yogurt and banana I had before I left the Albergue. Alvaro and Rosara are from one of the Spanish territories in northern Morocco. These territories have been part of Spain the 15th century, but as Leea and I heard when we were in Morocco, the Moroccans don't like it one bit. Anyway, Alvaro invited me to wall with them, but I declined. I like walking alone. And I think they like walking together as a couple. They are really sweet. After they left another guy, Agusto started talking to me. He had been in California as an exchange student when he was in high school. He's doing the Camino on a bicycle, as are many other people. He was born in Navarra, but raised in Madrid and lives there now. We discussed the different cultures in Mexico and Spain, politics and a few other subjects. Then I went on my way. He passed me later on his bicycle and gave me a big wave. I stopped again for cáfe in Hospital del Obrigo which was one of the places I considered stopping if my knee was bothering me, but it wasn't and so I went on the scenic route which was the longer one and again the road less traveled.

My sweet little knee was a very brave little soldier. It only got cranky a couple of times on the steep downhills. There will be more of those in the next few days. Today we did the hill, tomorrow we start to cross the mountains. These are the Montañas de Leon. The same mountains that were on fire a few days ago, though I don't think we pass through the burned area. The terrain is changing and getting more varied and interesting. I'm really enjoying walking.

I got to Astorga about three, did the usual stuff and was delight to find out they have wifi, so I can hear from all of you this evening, well this afternoon your time. To night I'm having dinner at the Gaudi Restaurant which is across the Plaza from the building Gaugi designed called the Bishop's Palace i think it looks a little like the Dismeyland Palace myself. It is also across the Plaza from the humongous Cathedral. I think in the old days it was believed that the city with the bestest church got the best favors from God. Kind of a silly concept now, but I think it was part of the belief then, because there is no way the cities are big enough today to need that much space, never mind a thousand years ago. Besides in these gothic churches, most of the space is unusable, it's a soaring ceiling.
I also crossed over one of the oldest and best preserved medieval bridges today dating from the 13th century and built over an earlier Roman bridge. The thing is massive and back in the day the river was wide and deep and there was no way to get across the river, except by the bridge. Many lives were lost and much blood was spilled on that bridge by opposing forces trying to control passage.

Well I have to check my laundry and get ready for dinner.